GATTI – Frazione of Castione Andevenno – February 17, 2021

Posted byVirginia MerliniPosted inUncategorized

GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno – Although I, still, have not found the fourth fresco of Ambrosione, I did find a mostly un-restored early 18th-century Wall Madonna in the small frazione of Gatti. And where I found her is more evidence that I am not likely to find the final Ambrosione. I say mostly un-restored because it seems to me that part of the Madonna’s neck has been redone – or more neck was painted in for missing hair? Her face sits too far forward and her neck is too broad. But I believe her face is original. It is too beautiful and well-done to have been touched. I am no expert though. You decide.

GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno – this is the small town near the top of the mountain. Here is some data on Gatti – Gatti sits 760 meters above sea level. The 141 people living permanently in Gatti – all are Italians. There are meadows and flat lands up here and the farms host cattle and horses. I did not see any vineyards here. Gatti sits back some from the face of the mountain. The vineyards are on the slopes that get the sun all day. Most of the homes here are in good condition. Only six were built before 1919 and most were built between 1919-1945. Of the 61 homes in Gatti 36 have only one room! I think all those were in the lanes where I walked today!

The tiny, mountain frazioni that survive with intact buildings have homes that are clustered together and connected – with arches and walkways leading to small doors that once hid small homes. It is maze-like walking among these stone homes with their ancient wooden doors.

GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -narrow streets of the older part of the village
GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -narrow streets of the older part of the village

Most homes fell into disrepair as life moved down the mountains into the valley. But there are working farms and vineyards on this side of the Valtellina and many of the houses are still lived in or are being renovated – perhaps by non-locals who crave the astonishing views and cool mountain air in the summer.Today in Gatti I found a strip of old homes – some with scaffolding in place for renovations. I walked the brief, narrow streets –searching for Wall Madonna’s that I knew would be within the interior lanes – if they existed at all. Fate smiled today and I found this one in pristine condition for its age – 1716. Looking closely one can clearly see that the artist had no small talent and I searched in vain for some hint of a ‘signature’. I made two montages so you can see the five figures in their original colors. The enthroned Madonna and Child are central. Two cherubs fly above to either side of Mary’s head. They both have pink wings. To Mary’s right is Sant’Ambrogio, in the foreground is the white-bearded Sant’Antonio Abate, and to Mary’s left is Santa Barbara. That is my best guess for the saints. I not sure of the female saint – or even if the figure is female actually – but I am pretty sure of the other two. If anyone has better insight I would welcome it. As is common in Lombardy – Jesus has bright red hair and Mary’s hair is a deep auburn. But – again – I am no expert and maybe that is just faded paint that once was brown. I hope you enjoy this fresco and the sentiment to which it harkens both in the past and today when devotion and belief are largely private and no longer displayed in such a bold and unabashed manner.

GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -Wall Madonna montage – if you look closely you can see that Mary’s neck is too thick and her face too far forward. Perhaps some ‘hair’ was missing. The two cherubs are a bit difficult to see. The carved stone about the one window lintel attests to the age of the building – 1716.

GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -This is the 18th-century home that is host to the Wal Madonna. I used a wide-angle lens to get a full picture of the house. The side ‘garden’ was decorated and a small triangular stone reads ‘Ca’ di Gatti – Casa di Matt 26. It is very unfortunate that some vandal spray painted the beautiful wooden door.
GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -House fo the Wall Madonna – this is the carved stone sign of the owner – Ca’ di Gatt – Casa di Matt 26

Some photos from my walk through Gatti!

GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno – the meadows in front of the village
GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -A gorgeous view – that is Postalesio in the distance.
GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -a great door with its owns fountain with a copper drinking cup hanging in it.
GATTI – Frazione of Castione Andevenno – a great old door!
GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno – the town laundry trough and fountain. There is always a laundry and it is usually still used!
GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno -houses are connected and merge into each other – an amalgamation of doors and alleys.
GATTI – frazione of Castione Adevenno – I like the buses here! They go everywhere at least twice a day to bring people to and from work down the mountain.

Published by Virginia Merlini

I am a retired academic - a sociologist, sociolinguist, ethnographer, and photo-ethnographer. I am building this website and blog to share my passion for the public and private art of Italy. My main focus is on the Wall Madonna. The concept ‘Wall Madonna’ is my own. It is the name I give to the art found on the external walls of many of the homes of the locals which depicts Mary – the woman called Theotokos – God-bearer. I use Wall Madonna to refer to those images frescoed on the outside of homes and public buildings, or the paintings, carvings and statuary attached to the same. My intent is to examine Wall Madonna’s as a type of visual language and gesture in order to come to an understanding of their function and purpose in Italian social life. In searching for Wall Madonna’s I try to present a broader harvest of my quest so that the towns and cities I visit are frescoed for the reader in my blogs. Therefore, I like to include streetscapes, doors – which have a language of their own, vistas, and the life of the people as reflected in the things one sees as one peruses a town. Because my family is from the Valtellina and because the valley is lush and beautiful and steeped in history - and an abundance of Wall Madonna’s – I have a small home here. I love the Valtellina. I hope my photos capture your attention. There is no greater joy than sharing this art with others.

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